Pol Roger Brut Reserve Magnum NV 1.5L

Pol Roger Brut Reserve Magnum NV is the family-owned Épernay house’s non-vintage Brut Réserve Champagne in a 1.5 litre magnum, equal to two standard bottles. It is an equal blend of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay from 30 crus, with 25% reserve wines.

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Pol Roger was founded in 1849 and is still owned by the founder’s descendants. Brut Réserve is the house wine, and Pol Roger sets out what each grape brings. Pinot Noir, mainly from the Montagne de Reims, gives structure and body. Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne and around Épernay adds freshness and fruit. Chardonnay from Épernay and the Côte des Blancs brings finesse and lift. Each grape and village is fermented separately in cool stainless steel, and every wine goes through malolactic fermentation before blending.

The second fermentation and ageing happen in Pol Roger’s cellars, 33 metres below the streets of Épernay, where the wine spends about four years before release. Every bottle is still riddled by hand, which is unusual among the larger Champagne houses today. The magnum format suits this wine well: more wine relative to air means it matures slowly, and it makes a strong centrepiece for a wedding, a big birthday or a long family lunch.

Pol Roger’s own tasting notes:

Nose: Pear and mango first, then honeysuckle and white jasmine, with vanilla and brioche.

Palate: Fresh and lively, with quince jelly, apricot jam, beeswax and acacia honey.

Finish: Long, with candied orange peel, tangerine, cardamom and anise.

Allow several hours in the fridge or 30 to 40 minutes in an ice bucket, and serve at 8 to 10°C. Pol Roger pitches it as an aperitif or to carry through a whole meal, so start with cured salmon or oysters and follow with roast pork or a whole baked fish. A magnum pours about 12 glasses.